Archive for category: Chile
Having slept around half an hour, and with blurred memories on how I ended up there, I was travelling north. I decided to go to Chaitén, then to Futaleufú through Villa Santa Lucía. Gerard was driving to Chaitén in order to take a colleague back to La Junta. The colleague was going to Chaitén in a ferry. The ferry, coincidentally, was the ‘Don Baldo’.
We were talking while sunrise, driving north, trying to avoid sleepiness. When we approached Chaitén, we could see the effects of the volcano eruption. Still there were a lot of surface covered with ash, especially in the town. As the ferry arrival was delayed, we had time to stroll around the town.
I found a person going closer to Futaleufú, so I did bid farewell to Gerard. Went to Pt. Ramírez, and then, start hitchhiking again.
If you want to grow a magnificent hatred for humankind, and you are not very patient, then you should go and try to hitchhike from Villa Amengual to Puyuguapi. From a comprensive “I can understand it, I wouldn’t stop if I saw myself hitchhiking”, I passed to a lot of swearing and desperation, after more than seven hours and many Kms walking with the weight of the backpacks.
Suddenly, I got lucky, and Claudio [cl] stopped and took me to Pt. Cisnes. It was not my destination, but it was far better than being stuck in the middle of nowhere. Well, not stuck, but slowly moving.
I was also relatively lucky with the bus schedule: there was a bus from Pt. Cisnes to Puyuguapi-La Junta on monday (just the day after). Though the touristic place is Puyuguapi, I chose La Junta, because it was further north, and someone told me it had better connections.
That sunday I couldn’t find a bus to Puyuhuapi, and I was eager to flee from Coyhaique. That aera of the ‘carretera austral’, without a car, was the beginning of (almost) an adventure. I bought a ticket to Pt. Cisnes, with the intention of getting off the bus in Villa Amengual, camp, and continue the route by other means (walking and hitchhiking).
After getting to Villa Amengual, I talked with Marcelo [cl] and his spanish wife (whose name I cannot remember), and ended up in a night of wine and BBQ, in a place 8Km south to Amengual. Local people and humour.
Low in cash, I found a solution for that night.
Though the shop arrived at 4am, they did let us stay onboard till 7am. Then, I went to Coyhaique (through Pt. Aysen) with the australians.
Once we embarked, we were presented some prohibitions: we couldn’t get the luggage with us, it had to remain in the lower deck. That rule was imposed to avoid the people getting drunk and having or producing accidents. That rule (along with the lack of foreigners) also defined that trip as a non-touristic travel.
Anyway, they opened the deck and we could get some stuff. With that stuff, inevitably, there were some beers. Well, we drank, but in the privacy of our cabin. My ‘cabinmate’ was Juan.
It was curious that the price difference between a cabin and a seat was very tiny (4 dollars). In some cases, there was an explanation: it’s a company that pays the ticket for its employee. But the difference in comfort was huge. And the travel lasted almost thirty hours… miserly companies. Fortunately, there was a power plug in the room, so I could use the computer.
There were two more foreigners on the ship: Jeremy [au] and Melissa [au]. I would get to know them the next days.
Quellón – Melinka, Raúl Marín, Balmaceda, Santo Domingo, Melimoyu, Toto Island, Pt. Cisnes, Amparo, Pt. Gaviota and Pt. Aguirre – disembarkation at Pt. Chacabuco.
(italics for those that I remember seeing -not in dreams but awake and outside my cabin)
In a decision of extreme clarity or extreme numbness, I went to Quellón ready to get into a ship to, for example, Pt. Chacabuco. Don Baldo, as I read in a web page, departs each tuesday at 16h, and goes through the Austral range. But it turned out that they delayed the departure till 22h, something that gave me more time.
***(now, waiting, I do write these words)
I stayed for hours in Quellón, walking by small parks where children share space with drunkies and ‘pasta‘ addicts.
‘Naviera Austral’ delayed two more hours the trip, without giving any excuse: finally, we would sail at midnight. To spend the short while, I spoke with random people. And I ended up having beers and talking with Juan [cl] and Pablo [cl]. Fixing the world, or just complaining.
People were pissed off with the company, though they didn’t react very noisily. We were under the tyranny of a monopoly.
After some time, we embarked with a tiny boat, since ‘Don Baldo’ couldn’t get to the wharf. As the boat moved away from the port, some feelings of excitement and disorientation arose. I was somewhat captivated by the lights twinkling in the black sea, while we were getting closer to the ship.